Preparing Your Quilt For Machine Quilting

These are the things you need to do before you give me your quilt

-Square up back. If you fold it in half lengthwise it should match side to side and top and bottom without creasing.

-Remove selvage edges. This prevents puckering at the seams, as selvages are wound more tightly than the rest of the fabric.

-Back and batting should be 4-6 inches larger (2-3 inches wider and 2-3 inches longer on each side). Please double check. This allows me to position the clamps that hold the back in place without interfering with the area to be quilted.

-Iron all seams flat. If pressed flat they will not bend and twist when quilted.

-Clip all loose threads that can hang up the hopping foot. HOP HOP

-No pins please. They will kill my machine and throw the timing into another dimension.

-Mark top center direction of quilting design, if design has a definite top.

-Mark top center of back, if needed, especially if it needs to match the top center.

-Open package and fluff batting.

Also remember puckers, tucks and wrinkles can not be quilted out and will remain visible after machine quilting. 


Quilting Options
Large Meander/Stipple

Pantographs-A paper pattern to follow that has the quilting design drawn on it, see separate page or search on line.


Stitch-In-the-Ditch, Outline

Semi-Custom-includes combination of custom, ruler-work and freehand and ranges in price depending on complexity and precision.

Custom Border, Sash and Block

Heirloom- for those very special quilts that will be show stoppers. Please request this if you are entering quilt in a contest or for prize winning.


Binding- Sewing your pre-made binding to the top of the quilt only. You do the hand work. I do charge extra for this but well worth it on a large quilt. Make binding 2.5 inches wide folded and pressed in half.


Choose color thread and quilting design/ pantograph

See Thread Selections 

See Pantographs​


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